Sleep Systems
First I will say that the sleeping area is your "ultimate layer," and all good sleep systems start with a warm hat and warm feet - good socks and preferably down or wool booties.Second, NOT stamping down a sleeping area will result in a warmer softer bed. One can push down shoulder and hip holes later, and the whole pad will be more resistant to water collection. Inside a shelter, one usually has to sleep on a hardened icy platform simply because of construction work (darn that construction team), but the softer and fluffier the snow, the better.
Be sure that your sleeping area does not become an ice water catch basin. If a tent, stomp snow drains at the corners and along the side, like a pool table. If in a snow shelter, remember that the walls, if properly shaped, are designed to not drip, but instead bring moisture flowing down the walls. Make sure that this flow does not wind up in your sleeping area.
I have not used bivies much and have heard mixed reports, but I think they are a great fast shelter when needed.
Whether in a tent or shelter, one sleeping pad is generally not enough, especially if the inflatable variety. They can spring a leak and no one wants to do repairs in the middle of a frosty night. We have already mentioned Reflectix, shiny bubble wrap available in hardware stores that can add much-needed insulation just where it is needed. Waterproof, it can be used either under or over all other bedding, and if car-camping, can even be used to line the entire shelter floor. It is a good second layer of protection against cold.
Keith maintains that the heat reflection is such that it is best used directly below the sleeping bag, and I agree the reflective heat helps a lot. However, I find the smooth, slippery nature of Reflectix means that is relatively easy to slide off in the middle of the night, and so I rarely sleep directly on it.
There are many sleeping pads that do not depend on inflation, and I use them as well, but ANYTHING you haul out with you can be considered fair game for bedding. Two critical areas are the shoulders and hips, where the most weight is focused. Consider spare clothing like coats and hats, shells, gloves and mittens to provide padding there. I have a friend who places his pack boots, soles out, under his hips for the padding they provide as well as the fact that the boots tend to prevent "falling off" the bed.
One ideal way to keep it all together is to have a pocket built under the sleeping bag to hold pads and other items so that they don't run away in the night. This can be part of the sleeping bag, or part of an "overbag" which will also reduce heat loss.
I have used all sorts of things under my legs and feet. My backpack works well, straps and padding down, and I can even slip my feet inside the pack. Snowshoes could also work, lifting legs and feet off the snow. One could even envision laying skis, binders down, the length of the bed and placing a sleeping pad on top. The air pocket will make things much warmer. For legs and feet, almost anything I bring that will lift them up away from the snow can work.
My pillow is usually a stuff sack with spare gloves, hat, shirts, anything soft - although I have placed my ski boots inside and padded them with everything else. If you use ingenuity, you can get by with the much shorter and lighter half-length sleeping pads which will save weight when going cross-country.
I have also placed those ski boots inside a stuff sack and down inside the sleeping bag. They are a lot more fun to put on in the morning. Water bottles can be handled the same way to prevent freezing.
I have a down bag rated to zero degrees, and while I have to keep it dry, it works well. I also have liners (silk and polypro) that can further boost the rating. Silk is softer but the polypro is a bit warmer (and cheaper). I have a fleece outer bag that has a pocket in the back for Reflectix and a sleeping pad, to keep them under me. Other lightweight sleeping bags can also supplement the main bag as needed - as long as you are not too constricted inside all this cocooning.
Depending on how cold the night is, and how wet my clothing is, I have been known to climb into my bag with almost everything on. If it is damp or wet it stays outside, though could well end up being used underneath the bag. I remove layers if forced to do so because I am too warm - not a bad way to be on a chilly night.
The thought of sleeping in the snow gives some folks chills, but if you approach it creatively, one can enjoy a good night's rest.
Whether in a tent or shelter, one sleeping pad is generally not enough, especially if the inflatable variety. They can spring a leak and no one wants to do repairs in the middle of a frosty night. We have already mentioned Reflectix, shiny bubble wrap available in hardware stores that can add much-needed insulation just where it is needed. Waterproof, it can be used either under or over all other bedding, and if car-camping, can even be used to line the entire shelter floor. It is a good second layer of protection against cold.
Keith maintains that the heat reflection is such that it is best used directly below the sleeping bag, and I agree the reflective heat helps a lot. However, I find the smooth, slippery nature of Reflectix means that is relatively easy to slide off in the middle of the night, and so I rarely sleep directly on it.
There are many sleeping pads that do not depend on inflation, and I use them as well, but ANYTHING you haul out with you can be considered fair game for bedding. Two critical areas are the shoulders and hips, where the most weight is focused. Consider spare clothing like coats and hats, shells, gloves and mittens to provide padding there. I have a friend who places his pack boots, soles out, under his hips for the padding they provide as well as the fact that the boots tend to prevent "falling off" the bed.
One ideal way to keep it all together is to have a pocket built under the sleeping bag to hold pads and other items so that they don't run away in the night. This can be part of the sleeping bag, or part of an "overbag" which will also reduce heat loss.
I have used all sorts of things under my legs and feet. My backpack works well, straps and padding down, and I can even slip my feet inside the pack. Snowshoes could also work, lifting legs and feet off the snow. One could even envision laying skis, binders down, the length of the bed and placing a sleeping pad on top. The air pocket will make things much warmer. For legs and feet, almost anything I bring that will lift them up away from the snow can work.
My pillow is usually a stuff sack with spare gloves, hat, shirts, anything soft - although I have placed my ski boots inside and padded them with everything else. If you use ingenuity, you can get by with the much shorter and lighter half-length sleeping pads which will save weight when going cross-country.
I have also placed those ski boots inside a stuff sack and down inside the sleeping bag. They are a lot more fun to put on in the morning. Water bottles can be handled the same way to prevent freezing.
I have a down bag rated to zero degrees, and while I have to keep it dry, it works well. I also have liners (silk and polypro) that can further boost the rating. Silk is softer but the polypro is a bit warmer (and cheaper). I have a fleece outer bag that has a pocket in the back for Reflectix and a sleeping pad, to keep them under me. Other lightweight sleeping bags can also supplement the main bag as needed - as long as you are not too constricted inside all this cocooning.
Depending on how cold the night is, and how wet my clothing is, I have been known to climb into my bag with almost everything on. If it is damp or wet it stays outside, though could well end up being used underneath the bag. I remove layers if forced to do so because I am too warm - not a bad way to be on a chilly night.
Winter survivalists
In wilderness lore, a bed was made of pine boughs stacked high. This was decidedly not "leave no trace" practice. Conifers for yards around were stripped to provide a fragrant bed. I have used dead branches and twigs the same way when an inflated pad I was foolishly relying on sprang a leak. Branches and twigs make for a lumpy bed, but they are better than a chilly alternative. Dry leaves, if available, can be used the same way. Consider all alternatives when faced with an emergency.The thought of sleeping in the snow gives some folks chills, but if you approach it creatively, one can enjoy a good night's rest.
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